Seated in a quaint corner-café nestled within the 7th arrondissement of Paris, a stone’s throw from Saint-Germain-des-Prés and its bohemian atmosphere, I had the privilege of meeting Marion Gomez, an ambitious young talent in her final year at Penninghen, the internationally renowned art and design school. Laptop open and a cup of tea by her side, Marion kindly welcomed me just as she neared the end of this year’s classes. The significance of our meeting spot was not lost on us: it is right next door to the said school, where her up-and-coming brand, bongö, first took root.
Marion’s journey, though only just begun, is a testament to her audacity and creativity. With a keen eye for web design and a desire to merge fashion and photography into a singular vision, she founded her own brand in March 2023. What initially started as an end-of-term assignment metamorphosed into a physical manifestation of her artistic talent. Tasked with conceptualizing visuals and branding for an object of her choice, Marion gravitated towards Wax fabrics, sparking a debut collection that would celebrate culture and individuality.
This first collection, which fuses 80s football jerseys with Wax-inspired fabrics, is driven by a contagious sense of celebration, bridging the gap between Marion’s Western upbringing and African origins. With this in mind, bongö did not just emerge as a fashion label, but as a means for cross-cultural dialogue and artistic exploration. The name of the brand itself, bongö, draws from Sango, a dialect spoken in the Central African Republic, which refers to clothing in its broadest sense: it designates at once pants, t-shirts, socks, and above all, fabric.
Drawn to the heritage of her Beninise and Central African origins, Marion found inspiration in the tradition of storytelling embedded within fabrics and patterns—a legacy she sought to honor and reimagine. Recognizing the narrative potential of Wax fabric, Marion aimed to convey a variety of messages through the color and shape combinations that her jerseys offer. Each jersey communicates a distinct emotion; the circular shapes of one exude a gentle warmth, while the angular shapes of another suggest rigidity, something colder and perhaps more brutal. Marion explains that people living in Benin and Central Africa are familiar with such symbols, the pattern and color variations at play drawing on a culture that communicates a lot through prints and textile designs. In these regions, textiles are more than just clothing; they hold socio-cultural significance. And through her brand, Marion breathes new life into these codes.
Eventually, Marion observed a similar communicative power within football jerseys, whether they express allegiance to a team, a person, a place, a cherished number, or even oneself. Football brings people together, especially in Africa, which is something she found important while making her designs. Alongside her debut collection, Marion launched a magazine that paid tribute to the community spirit inherent to football culture. Vintage photographs of European and African football players adorn its pages, weaving a narrative that transcends borders and generations, further highlighting the bond between sports, culture, and identity. By merging these cultural influences, Marion has fashioned a vibrant, kaleidoscope-like collection. And though her clothes may not feature literal Wax prints, they present a unique graphic language imbued with layers of cultural significance.
If further proof were needed of Marion’s ability to combine artistic mediums, look no further than her pop-up store at Matières Premieres, which recreated a miniature football field—stadium seats and lawn included—on a stand designed to showcase the brand’s artistic strengths. Marion does not simply capture a moment; she crafts detailed narratives through her lens. Accordingly, her passion for photography extends beyond mere visuals, addressing instead nuanced themes of cultural representation.
Her portfolio boasts multiple editorial covers, most of which feature models of color. Determined to find new approaches to photographing black models, she uses color grading techniques to enhance their skin tones and ensure that their features stand out in a way often overlooked by today’s fashion landscape. Bursts of color punctuate these scenes, often set against a backdrop painted with thick streaks of neutral tones. With these compositions, Marion redefines notions of representation in the industry, using photography to spark meaningful conversations.
As Marion’s journey continues to evolve, the future holds exciting prospects for her brand. With her end-of-year (and final) project coming up, she is set to unveil her sophomore collection, once again marrying fashion with tech-inspired elements. Drawing inspiration from Benin’s “winter” climate, that is the dry season from December to March. Characterized by winds blowing off the Sahara Desert, the collection will spotlight coats and long trenches. In parallel, Marion has been contemplating a rebranding initiative, namely a name change, while still preserving the essence of her brand. Embracing her talents in photography and web design, Marion aims to orient her brand towards these mediums, while retaining fashion as an integral component. Culture will also remain at the core of her projects, ensuring that African influences continue to permeate her designs. As Marion embarks on this new chapter, the future of her brand promises innovation, eagerly anticipated by all who admire her distinct identity.
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