As the curtains close on New York Fashion Week this September, one theme rings louder than the clamour of photographers outside Spring Studios: the tension between content and craft. The fashion calendar’s most visible stage has long been a breeding ground for viral moments, but this season, many designers and critics alike are asking whether the chase for clicks has hollowed out the heart of style.
For all the spectacle that NYFW still offers, a striking amount of what appeared on the runways leaned toward restraint. Calvin Klein, under the direction of Veronica Leoni, showcased coats and suiting that critics described as “a bold step into pared-down elegance,” with a palette dominated by blacks, greys and creams. Michael Kors, reflecting on his Fall/Winter 2025 collection, said backstage, “I think people want clothes that feel grounded. They want beauty, but they also want reality.” His slouchy trousers, flowing skirts, and softly structured blazers gave the audience exactly that: timelessness without theatrics.
The move toward neutrality was echoed by brands like Totême, Khaite and Ralph Lauren, all of whom emphasised clean silhouettes and natural palettes. L’Officiel called COS’s collection “an exercise in wearability,” applauding its trench coats, dresses, and layered tailoring that delivered subtle sophistication. Rather than pushing shock value, these collections offered something radical in today’s climate: clothes designed to be lived in.
There were moments of newness, too. Jamie Okuma, who became the first Native American designer to show on the official CFDA calendar this season, made her debut with a collection that blended tradition with streamlined modernity. “I wanted to create work that honours my culture while making something that’s wearable in any setting,” she told Vogue. Her sundresses, jumpsuits and caftans were executed in sustainable fabrics and showed how storytelling and sustainability can coexist with simplicity.
The tension between drama and discipline extended to the celebrity circuit. Olandria Carthen’s runway debut with Sergio Hudson on Sept. 12 was a high-energy affair; she walked in an orange, black and nude jacket with embellished sleeves, paired with shorts and strappy heels. But her street looks throughout the week told another story. In a lemon-yellow knit mini and a tailored pastel romper, Carthen showed that pared-back glamour can speak just as loudly as an embellished jacket under the spotlights. Lily Collins, who returned to NYFW for the first time in sixteen years, appeared at Calvin Klein in an iridescent coordinated set, a cropped top and pencil skirt that shimmered without overcomplicating the silhouette.
These choices underline a shift in attitude. While the social media machine still thrives on exaggerated gowns, oversized headpieces and meticulously staged streetwear shots, the collections that resonated most this season were those that trusted simplicity. Critics described it as a “return to career fashion,” where cuts, fabrics and construction replaced gimmicks and viral bait. As one editor outside the Khaite show remarked, “It feels like people are designing for longevity again, not just the feed.”
NYFW’s September 2025 chapter suggests that the pendulum is swinging. The content is still there, the machine never stops, but the quiet power of a neutral trench, the elegance of a crisp cotton shirt dress, or the restraint of a coordinated set proved that substance is reentering the frame. In a moment where the industry risks drowning in its own optics, the most memorable statements came from those who resisted.
